Kelly’s career commenced with the selling of dresses on the streets of Paris while working as a costumer for a nightclub, Le Palais. As his work became more recognizable, he signed a designing contract with Warnaco. Kelly eventually moved into high-end stores such as Henri Bendel, Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdale. The year 1985, marked Kelly’s officially entry into the Paris fashion limelight as his striking ready-to-wear women’s collection helped him become a key figure in the fashion scene throughout the world. Kelly’s garments adorned the bodices of many celebrities including actress Cicely Tyson, vocalist Grace Jones, Bette Davis, and Josephine Baker. Although Kelly had a great sense of styling fashion, his own personal anti-fashion “uniform” did not reflect his talent as he was often critiqued for his own wardrobe. Kelly was always seen in enormous custom-made denim overalls, with a biker’s cap, bright colored high top sneakers, and cotton turtlenecks. But in the end what he wore didn’t seem to matter so long as what he designed continued to be in high demand.
The first American to become a member of the governing body of the prestigious French ready-to-wear industry, the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter, Kelly created many flamboyant garments that celebrated his southern roots and complimented his vibrant personality. The exhibit includes a small room of collectibles, and samples of Kelly’s works including a long sleeve, ankle length stretch wool dress adorned with colorful buttons throughout; and another beautiful metallic silver stretch cloque with black, white, and silver mask ornaments. A larger room captures the essence of Patrick Kelly, filled with his signature pieces, each one different yet captivating the same amount of attention. From handkerchief halter dresses, to scarf dresses, it all makes you feel as if you were being introduced to the essence and vibrant spirit of Patrick Kelly.
It is very apparent that Patrick Kelly acknowledged the racial stereotypes that existed during his lifetime. He incorporated controversial “black” images in his work and had an immense collection of thousands of items of black memorabilia. Kelly created a playful inversion of racial stereotypes that is very apparent through his signature golliwog logo, collectible shopping bags, posters, advertisements and other items on display. A major part of Kelly’s collection, includes an assortment of black dolls: Aunt Jemimas, Barbie’s, and Cabbage Patches. Kelly started collecting black dolls because as a young boy, he never recalled having seen any black dolls. A lady once walked up to him as he was passing through an airport carrying a Black doll in the early 1980’s and asked about the doll. She then continued to explain that her daughter would never want a doll like that and Kelly replied, “In this day and time if your daughter would throw away a Black doll, and she’s Black, there is something wrong.” Kelly also had a signature souvenir of black face baby-doll pins that were given to friends and handed out at his shows.
His designs have and will continue to influence fashion and inspire many others for years to come. He is a true pioneer of fashion and will immortally remain an inspiration for young designers of today and tomorrow.
Check out this video of Patrick Kelly: http://watch.fashiontelevision.com/flashback/clip98603#clip98603
via: Black Fashion Designers
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